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A Perfect Parisian Morning

posted as: destination details and will travel for food
May 20, 2009
Jauntsetter readers, you're in luck! A fellow traveler, Megan Blocker, has offered to share her perfect Parisian day with us, and, simply put, it's the parfait vision of an ambitious (but idyllic) day in one of the world's most pleasant cities.

We had a blog post at the ready suggesting a very similar itinerary, but we're going to let Megan do the honors. After all, Megan has traveled to Paris quite a few times, and knows our favorite parts of the city well. Plus, she's more than serious about food (check out her awesome blog here), and her passion for all things epicurean (a Parisian prerequisite) is obvious in her recommendations below.

We'll be posting Megan's musings in two blog parts, broken up into a morning and an afternoon. That said, for the first time visitor, Megan's perfect Paris day could be a bit overwhelming. Feel free to break up her suggested itinerary into two days if you have the time! 

Enjoy, and merci Megan for taking the time to share your suggestions with us. 

xo,

your jauntsetter team

______________________________________

From Megan:

I am a voracious traveler, and few cities spur me into the frenzy of activity that Paris does - like New York, it's the kind of place that both requires and replenishes enormous amounts of energy.  

Unlike New York, it's a relatively small city, which means you can cover a remarkable amount of ground in a short time. My perfect Parisian day takes full advantage of the fact. Whether you spread an itinerary like this one over three days (with copious amounts of cafe-sitting and people-watching in the interim), or power through it in one, I guarantee you'll be more invigorated by it than anything else.

Morning
Wake up to a perfect breakfast of coffee and pastry in your (adorable, comfy, tiny) room at the Hotel Caron de Beaumarchais. I stayed here on my last trip to Paris, and was completely enchanted by its jewel-box feel. The rooms are small, but they're also lovely and reasonably priced. Located in the Marais, one of my favorite neighborhoods, it's smack in the middle of Paris - a perfect jumping-off point.  

Fortified by café and croissants, board the Métro and head for the Porte de Clignancourt on the northern edge of the city. There you'll find the legendary Marche aux Puces, among the best & largest flea markets in the world. If you collect, well, anything, come prepared to find more of it than you ever imagined possible. I typically browse and lust after the new, handmade furniture, but leave instead with vintage maps for my collection, and giant chandelier crystals to use as paperweights.  

It would be criminal (in my family, at least) to visit Paris without picking up something for those left behind in the States. So, on your way back into town, consider stopping at cookware mecca Dehillerin. Famous in Paris for its alternately ornery and jocular staff, Dehillerin is best known in the U.S. as the inspiration for Chuck Williams' original store in the Sonoma Valley. A visit here is like a trip back in time - there are no shopping baskets. Instead, gather your choices from the shelves, heap them on the butcher block table, and one of the salesmen will wrap them in brown paper and pass you a hand-written receipt. The cookware is very reasonably priced (tart pans can be had for about the half the price they command at Sur La Table), so it's easy to leave with something for everyone on your list.  

Afternoon
At this point, it would probably be wise to drop your booty off at the hotel and find some lunch. You could enjoy a salad at a sidewalk cafe, or, for equally good people-watching, grab a crêpe banane-chocolat from a stand and find a comfy seat in the Jardin du Luxembourg. When you've had your fill of crêpe (and of observing the locals), head south. Just a few blocks away is the entrance to the Paris Catacombs, one of the coolest and creepiest sights Paris has to offer.

The Catacombs are part of the series of ancient tunnels that criss-cross Paris, and were re-purposed in the 18th century to receive the bodies of people originally buried in cemeteries throughout the city. When those cemeteries were deemed public health threats, they were condemned, and their contents moved to the Catacombs. A walk through the two kilometers' worth of tunnels is a glimpse into Paris' rich subterranean history, and offers a pretty healthy dose of the macabre.

After a journey through the afterlife, nothing could be more restorative than a cup of tea and a pastry, so it's time to head to Laduree's tea room on Rue Bonaparte in Saint-Germain. Lavishly decorated and filled with elegant ladies, Laduree (pictured) is Paris' temple to that most French of cookies, the macaron (a more modern tribute can be found down the street at Pierre Herme). My favorites, though, are the lemon tart (flaky, buttery and brimming with mouth-puckering curd) and the strawberry réligieuse, which will turn your tongue a shocking shade of pink.

Stay tuned for a walk to Île Saint-Louis, dinner in the Marais, and a nightcap...

Flourish

3 comments

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Louisa says:

Meg! You make me desperate to hop a flight to Charles de Gaulle! I may have to make crepes this weekend to tide myself over. Beautiful post!

(posted on 05/20/09, at 11:11AM)
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