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Going Green: Dublin this Spring

trip pick of the week
March 17, 2010
We met fellow traveler Kelly Wilkinson when we were exploring the fantastic wine region of Guerneville, CA. When we found out that she often traveled to Ireland for holidays and also had family ties there, we knew we needed to get some insider tips from her - especially since it´s been years, regretably, since we've visited the gorgeous country ourselves.

Luckily for us, Kelly volunteered to guest edit this week´s Trip Pick while we´re on the road in Mexico - and just in time for St. Patrick´s Day! 

Keep reading for Kelly´s take on Dublin, and check back on our blog this week for her top recommendations on what to do in the city. And thank you Kelly for posting while we're gone.

From Kelly:

First impressions of Dublin can sometimes be misleading. The city’s architecture – especially along the dark, murky River Liffey – can feel somber and heavy. And the often-steely skies don’t help overcome that impression. But Dublin’s physicality is deceiving. Turn down a cobblestone lane, duck into a dark pub, talk to a local, and the atmosphere shifts. Dublin is a young, vibrant, incredibly social place that manages to be down-to-earth and cosmopolitan at the same time. 

The last 15 years have been a wild ride for Ireland as a whole, and Dublin in particular. It famously rode the Celtic Tiger, which brought wealth and an influx of immigrants. Now, the bottom has fallen out of the Irish economy. But as you’ll discover if you strike up conversations with Dubliners, the Irish tend to take a long, witty view of life. And the rewards of tucking into Dublin have not been diminished at all by its flagging economy. 

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Trip Details

When to Go

Early spring may not sound like a picture-perfect time to visit Dublin. But the reality is that Ireland’s parks and squares are green year round, and that green looks even more vibrant in clear, cold air – and set against the city’s Georgian buildings when the trees are just starting to bud. 

Plus, you’ll avoid the throngs of tourists and mega-buses that can clog the city’s narrow streets in the warmer summer months. And if the spring breezes start to feel a little too “fresh” – as the Irish euphemistically say – there are all those cozy pubs to duck into for a dark pint or hot whiskey that will warm your bones. 

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Length of Stay

To get a true sense of the city, stay for at least a long weekend. After a few days of crisscrossing the small city, you will likely start to internalize the map of Dublin and feel like a local. But if you have more time, you can stay plenty entertained here for at least a week, and that would give you enough time to incorporate a couple day or longer trips to the famous Irish countryside. Glendalough, Avoca and the Wicklowmountains are less than an hour away. Or head to the city and county of Kilkenny for the weekend, as many Dubliners do. You’ll find traditional crafts alive and well there – with workshops and postcard-worthy villages set in ancient green river valleys. 

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Getting There

Aer Lingus flies direct out of JFK. The airline used to be famous for its hospitality, but the Irish are quick to diss the airline for cutting corners and becoming like every other airline. Still, they’re quick with the tea to get you in the habit of glugging at least a couple mugs a day. And you get to hear announcements in Irish first, and English second. Regardless of what airline you fly, flights are cheaper than usual this spring. Check on Kayak for airfare in the low 600´s for April travel.

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Getting Around

You won’t need a car in Dublin itself, and there are inexpensive buses that run from the airport to the city center. Or you can hop a cab. Within Dublin, walk where you can – it’s so compact and easily navigable. Ask for directions and you may be surprised how willing people are to help you find your way, and weigh in on where to find a good pint. If you get overwhelmed by suggestions, The Palace Bar and the Long Hall are the real deal when it comes to Dublin pubs. 

Once you’re in town, taxis are everywhere and relatively inexpensive, by Irish standards. And Dublin taxi drivers usually offer rich conversation and insight into the country’s current state of mind. 

The commuter rail line, the DART, can whisk you to some of the city’s coastal suburbs. 

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Where to Stay

Luxury 

Check out the Dylan Hotel, the Shelbourne, or the Clarence Hotel - those are widely considered the best, with the Dylan being the most stylish of the bunch.

Moderate

For our recent trip, we stayed with friends at a restored, three-bedroom mews house in the heart of the city. The Irish Landmark Trust restores historical properties around the country, from lighthouses to gatekeeper’s cottages, and uses the rent they charge to buy more run-down properties and fix them up. 

The Merrion Mews is on an unassuming alley smack in the middle of Dublin. It’s set atop stables (that the Irish mounted police use from time to time) with hefty front gates that open onto a stone courtyard. The house itself is lovingly and authentically restored, and full of charming period details, like wainscoting, wide plank floors, and a deep claw foot tub. Even the radiator knobs are antique.  

The only downside is that the Mews is across the street from a several-story parking garage, which you see out of the front windows. But the house itself has the feel of a comfortable, country cottage set down right in the middle of the city. And staying somewhere that requires a trip to the local grocer store always makes me feel like I really live there.  

Budget

Your best bet for an affordable hotel in Dublin is actually a B&B.The Botanic View is one of the highest rated in the city, with en suite rooms starting at just 45 Euro, or 61 USD, a night. Free Wi-Fi and breakfast (of course) are included in your stay. The Botanic is also an easy 10 minute bus ride from the city center.

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To Do
I´ll be back on the blog this week for lots of ideas on how to make the most of your trip to Dublin, so check back often! 

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About Kelly

Kelly Wilkinson is a journalist and craft designer. You can hear her work on public radio, read her monthly craft column in The Washington Post, and read her craft book when it comes out in Spring 2011. Her husband Mike O’Neill lived in Dublin and Ireland before moving to California and creating the award-winning Jimi wallet. Together, they are working to launch an online Irish gift site called Jo & Conn.

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