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Wintry Upstate Escape: Windham Mountain

trip pick of the week
December 02, 2008
In light of the travel burnout that can follow the Thanksgiving holiday, jauntsetter brings you a light and easy upstate getaway: Windham. 

Just over two hours north of the city in the Catskills, this sleepy town is the ideal gateway to some of the finest mountains on the East Coast, perfect for snowshoeing, skiing, snowboarding, and more. 

Whether you're a black-diamond skier or lazy snow tuber, there's something for everyone in our Trip Pick of the Week. Plus, the entire getaway is extremely affordable, and you needn't take any time off to enjoy it. 

So if you feel the need to experience some peace and quiet,  keep reading for our tips for the perfect wintry weekend escape.

xo,

your jauntsetter team

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Trip Details

When to Go

While it's somewhat mild in New York City right now, upstate is a bit cooler (at just above freezing) with a cold front on the way. All of this is good news for Windham Mountain, which has plenty of snow makers for its ski trails. And though we haven't seen snow yet, Windham has - as a result, over one third of its 46 trails are open, which means conditions are good for any winter weekend escape from now till March.

That said, if you're a serious skier or snowboarder, and you want to make sure conditions are ideal, check out Windham's conditions here. Also note that Windham has a "snow check" policy; if you don't like the trails during the first hour you're on the slope, return your lift ticket for another day.

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Length of Stay

A weekend will do, but a long weekend is the perfect amount of time to spend in Windham. Head up on a Friday night, be back Monday or Tuesday, feeling refreshed after your outdoor activity of choice (followed, we hope, by a dip in a hot tub or snooze by a fire). 

Needless to say, weekends are more crowded on the mountain. If there's any way you can, head to Windham midweek when prices on everything from hotel rooms to lift tickets drop, and the trails are much, much quieter. 

Also note: avoid public holidays like Martin Luther King Day and the week between Christmas and New Year's. Make sure to also avoid any school holidays, when children are on vacation with their harried parents, and the mountain lodge looks like a scene out of Lord of the Flies.

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Getting There

As usual, jauntsetter recommends a train/car hybrid when heading out of the city for a quick getaway. You'll miss rush hour traffic by taking the train, plus you'll save on car rental fees and gas. (If you'd rather drive straight from the city, or take a bus, see our "detailed information" section at the bottom of this page for more transportation options.)

To take the train, catch the Amtrak from Penn Station to Hudson, NY. The train runs seven days a week and comes frequently. Once in Hudson, grab your rental car from Enterprise - if you arrive before their office closes, they'll pick you up at the station. From Hudson, it's an easy 40-minute drive to Windham. 

Plus, if you have time, check out Hudson on your way home - it's filled with lovely art galleries and promising antique stores, and is worth visiting in its own right.

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Getting Around

If you've driven, it'll be easy to find your way around Windham. It's a small town, and you can see the ski mountain from almost anywhere in the area. 

If, however, you've taken the bus and opted not to drive, have no fear. Most accommodations have a shuttle bus that will take you to the mountain. And in terms of getting around in the evening, local taxi services are affordable and easy to arrange. 

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Where to Stay

Group Accommodations: Rent a Condo

We think there's nothing better than grabbing a bunch of friends and heading upstate, so our accommodation picks cover group lodging in the form of condo rentals. However, if you're heading upstate solo or as a couple, go ahead and scroll down to our "detailed information" section at the bottom of this page, where we cover regular lodging options. 

If, group or no group, you're willing to splurge, we also recommend renting a condo. After a day on the slopes, it's extra nice to return to a spacious area to stretch out in, especially one with both a kitchen and fireplace. After all, you'll likely not want to go out after a day of being active (plus, to be honest, the nightlife in Windham doesn't quite compete with New York). Added bonus: many of the condos have jacuzzis and indoor pools available for your usage.

Our Splurge Pick: Mountain Townhome 

If you've got a sizable group, think about renting a condo right on the mountain with the Mountain Townhomes. It doesn't get anymore luxurious than this option. With over 1600 square feet, most of the condos sleep 8 to 10 people a night. And while they aren't exactly cheap - they start at $565/night - they are worth it if you have enough people to go in on the deal (if you have 6, it'll be less than $100/night per person). 

Most importantly, the convenience factor of these condos can't be beat - waking up in the morning and skiing out the door is pretty sweet. Plus, you'll save lots of money on food - rather than eat in the pricey lodge, you can ski back to your condo for a lovely lunch or midday snack. 

Call 518-734-5333 for availability.

Our MidRange Pick: Winwood Inn Condos

For something more affordable, check out the options at Winwood Inn. While these condominiums are not right on the mountain, they are more affordable (an efficiency, which sleeps 4, starts at just $149/night). Plus, the Winwood is close to both the mountain and town, and there's a free shuttle bus that runs super frequently. 

Other options: There are plenty of condos around Windham, including Windham Mountain Village (walking distance), Windham Ridge Club (1 mile away), Quads (2 miles away), Crystal Pond (3 miles away) and Elm Ridge (3 miles away). 

Our favorite pick is the Windham Mountain Village condos, which are within easy walking distance to the ski lift and include access to an indoor pool and outdoor jacuzzi. All condos also have fireplaces and most have at least 2 bedrooms. Check out Craigslist for last minute specials!

Again, for single or couple lodging options, check out our "detailed information" section for our top hotel and inn picks!

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What to Do

Hitting up the mountain is the obvious choice in Windham, with lift passes starting at just $50 during the week. 

That said, there are tons of other things to do in the area, so don't write off Windham if you're not a ski bunny. Check out a few of our favorite activities below and make sure to read our daily-updated blog for more ideas this week!

  • Don't want to ski but want to get outdoors? Try your foot at snowshoeing! All the major rental shops have modern equipment for rent and tips on the best trails. You'll escape the crowds, enjoy pristine scenery, all while getting one of the best cardio workouts of your life.
  • Go night skiing - the trails are open from 4 to 9pm on Friday and Saturday nights and lift tickets are cheap, and the trails way less crowded. 
  • Don't know how to ski or snowboard? Never fear, there are plenty of professionals to teach you in Windham. Group lessons start at $66 - and include rentals. 
  • Snow tubing is lots and lots of fun, even if you're an adult. Check it out along with other activites including ice stating and wall climbing at the Adventure Center
  • Have the three-course, "Le Tour de France" dinner at the Bistro Brie & Bordeaux, rated best restaurant in Greene County, for less than $15. Offered every Wednesday, Thursday and Sunday from 5 to 9pm. 
  • Or check out the Chalet Fondue for a traditional fondue dinner. Very cozy, very cute! And right at the foot of Windham mountain. 
  • Renting a condo and making dinner? Go shopping at Todoro's - they have imported Italian ingredients of every sort, and every item you need to make the perfect apres-ski meal! (Windham, 518-734-4134)
  • Need bagels or any sort of baked goods? La Griglia has the best. (Route 296, near the base of the mountain).
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More Detailed Information

Driving There

If you can drive straight from the city, getting to Windham is easy (GPS coordinates: N 42 17.941  W 74 15.426). Simply make your way to the New York State Thruway to Exit 21. Then take Route 23 West directly to Windham. 

Taking The Bus

If you don't feel like taking the train check out the convenient bus tours that leave Manhattan almost every weekend. Rates start at about $30 roundtrip. 

More Accommodation Choices

For a handy list of all the area's hotels, check out this online guide with an availability calendar for the whole area!

Our Budget Pick: Hotel Vienna 

Here you'll find very affordable rooms with jacuzzis - which is enough to win us over. But that's not the only thing that makes this small European-style chalet a standout option; it's also adored by Tripadvisor reviewers ("Our second home," write The Matthews), features many fun amenities (like hot beverages available all day long, daily breakfast, wireless, DVDs, and a complimentary wine-tasting!), and has a great midweek ski special: $172/night for a jacuzzi room and 2 daytime lift passes (valued at $50 each). Considering that the regular rate for a midweek room is $115, this deal is a steal: you save about $50 on your passes. A basic room will cost you $95 mid-week, or $130 on the weekend. 

Our Midrange Pick: Albergo Allegria 

This quaint 3-star inn - it's decorated with stain-glass windows and antiques - offers ski packages similar to Hotel Vienna's, though slightly pricier: $175.20-$311.28 a night. Skiing aside, you can also book a spa or romance dinner package - both sound fantastic! If you decide not to go with one of the packages, you can choose from a wide array of rooms  - from $90 for a cozy room to one of their 5 suites (with cathedral ceilings, skylight, spa tub) for $200 and up. 

Our Splurge Pick: Christman's Windham House 

The Christman's claim to fame is its dinosaur status: it's been offering hospitality since 1805. In fact, it's the oldest continuously operating inn in the Catskill Mountains. As their website says: "inside the original inn, drovers found hearty food and warm spirits for the long haul, herding cattle and sheep up and down the rugged roads." 

These days, rather than cattle and sheep, you'll find instead a 27-hole golf resort, gourmet Italian restaurant (try the scallops in white wine sauce!), and extensive woodland. Their winter rates are set at $150/$170 and require a 2-night minimum. Skiing and golf aside, you can spend your time here hiking, relaxing in the outdoor heated pool, catching up on your reading in their library, and fishing. 

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