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An Adventurous, Affordable Escape: Bangkok

trip pick of the week
November 04, 2009
Not to sound over-the-top, but as we started to write up the introduction to this Trip Pick, our heart sank a little and a tear came to our eye. No, it's not that Bangkok is a sad place - on the contrary! Rather, we suddenly had an overwhelming feeling of deep longing for the place. Two years ago in September, we found ourselves in the metropolis - and in Southeast Asia - for the very first time. And for the very first time in our New York-centric lives, we were in a city that felt bigger than Gotham.

We were intimidated! Nay - damn near overwhelmed. Suddenly we understood what every small-town American must feel on their first trip to NYC. Crossing Bangkok's busy six-laned streets with their plentiful traffic and lack of crosswalks made us shudder. And the sprawling skyscrapers never seemed to end. 

The heat, too, felt oppressive after leaving the East Coast's crisp autumn weather. And within moments of leaving our seedy $35/night hotel after check-in (we were starting a long trip, and trying to stay quite on budget), we swear we saw someone defecating on a busy sidestreet. What the hell were we doing in Bangkok?

If this all sounds like our trip was some kind of horrific hazing process in How The Developing World Works, let us be clear: Bangkok is a lovely, cosmopolitan, and often-sophisticated city. And once our jetlag wore off and we got over the sad state of our super-budget hotel, we began to see the wonder of the city and all its charms: its fantastic street food; massive markets; medicinal (and affordable) massages; state-of-the-art, glistening-clean, massive metro systems; and luxurious hotels (where we treated ourselves to many a fancy cocktail).

Luckily for you, two years later than when we visited, Bangkok is more affordable than ever - and it was cheap to begin with. Excellent budget hotels start at just $56/night. Want to splurge? Five-star properties abound, ready to indulge your every whim for a fraction of what you'd pay in other cities for similar lodging and service.

So keep reading for all our tips on when to go, where to stay, and how to make the most of your trip to this amazing city. And make sure to check back on our blog this week for guest posts with insider-tips on the very best of Bangkok. Who knows, we just might jump on a plane ourselves and start blogging from there this week … nothing sounds more tempting.

xo,
your jauntsetter team



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Trip Details

When to Go

We recommend heading to Bangkok in November or December, when temperatures cool and the dry season begins. Better to explore when the climate is temperate; after all, you'll be spending plenty of time outdoors, exploring the city by foot and its nearby beaches in bikinis. We hope.

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Length of Stay

Bangkok could keep you occupied for weeks - but its major attractions can be experienced in three days, should you want to make it part of a larger SE Asian trip. Our recommended itinerary? Spend a few days here, and add in a trip to Chang Mai for a few days, and then end at a luxurious spa on Koh Samui before your long plane ride home. 

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Getting There 

Airfare will be the most expensive part of your trip to Bangkok - about $900 roundtrip - but remember that once in Thailand, everything (including hotels and food) can be shockingly inexpensive. We recommend using Kayak to search for flights with the lowest prices: the last two weeks on November, we found flights on Air China for $873, roundtrip, one stop, all taxes and fees included. 

If your trip is less than 30 days, you do not need a visa to visit Thailand.

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Getting Around

Taxis are cheap and readily available in Bangkok. Just make sure you get the address of where you want to go written in Thai; drivers don't really read English. On that note, always have a card of your hotel handy. It's the easiest way to get back to your accommodation. 

Tip: A red light on the top of a taxi means it's available (not busy!). And always make sure there's a meter in a taxi, and that it starts running as soon as you set off. Keep small bills available for the ride; drivers often don't have change.

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Where to Stay

As mentioned, during our stay in Bangkok, we stayed in a truly questionable hotel. (Choice quotes from our first email home: "It's kind of one of those stained sheets, cigarette-burns-on-the-already-scary-bedspread kind of places. Also, it's extremely humid here to say the least. A mosquito bit me on the nose when I was staying on a concrete bed last night. What I would give for my Tempurpedic!") If only we knew then what we know now. Regardless, even if you're on a budget, we're sending you to much nicer places than where we shacked up on our first heady trip … 

Our Splurge (and #1) Pick: The Peninsula Hotel

It's rare that a "splurge pick" is also our first hotel choice on jauntsetter, only in that we're usually pretty budget-oriented around here. But we also love a luxurious hotel that gives you every fancy thing at a reasonable price, and without the dreadful feeling that you're getting ripped off simply because you want to indulge. Which brings us to The Peninsula: nowhere else in the world will you experience such a fantastic value for a Five-Star experience. We mean it! 

From consistenly upgrading guests (just because) to its seamless check-in, the Peninsula makes every visitor feel special. It also instills a sense of calm as soon as one steps onto its property; it's located on the "quieter" side of the city's main river. (Not to fret: it's also got  a complimentary shuttle boat to take you to the other side.) Spacious, lovely rooms and little touches like electrical outlets next to the (complimentary) poolside cabanas round out this hotel as one of the most luxurious in Southeast Asia. 

Book with Tablet, not the hotel, for the cheapest rates. Rooms start at $296. "Winter escape" packages, which include an upgrade, complimentary breakfasts, massages, canal tours and other perks, start at $316  a night. Read Tripadvisor reviews here.

Our Midrange Pick: The Seven

This independent property located in the heart of Bangkok is made up of just 7 rooms, including the main entertaining area, and has quirky design and at truly boutique feel. Small rooms start at just $98/night, but we recommend the large "blue" room for $149 if you have the budget to spare. While the room really isn't that big, considering the price, you'll have a good amount of room to stretch out in, including your own private outdoor area. (And unless you're an exhibitionist, avoid the other large room - the "red" room - due to its large glass wall; you'll end up with your curtains drawn most of the time.) 

There's also a communal roof deck, turndown service, a 24 hour concierge , as well as free use of your own local mobile phone during your stay. The best part? It's loaded with the numbers for the hotel's favorite restaurants, bars and nightclubs. Thoughtful.

All rates are inclusive of breakfast for 2, a 10% service charge, taxes, complimentary use of a mobile phone w/local SIM card, wifi internet access, and local calls from a landline. In other words, this place is a genuine value. Check out glowing Tripadvisor reviews here or book with the hotel here.

Our Budget Pick: Phranakorn Nornlen

With rooms starting at just $53 for a single room, this budget pick is quite a deal. That said, upon first arrival, guests might be slightly put off by the appearance of the hotel, which definitely gives of a strong hippie vibe - and also has some older bathrooms in need of some updating.

Still, as our highly discerning contributor Antoaneta says, "This just may be my favorite hotel in the world," and after a night's stay, many a Tripadvisor reviewers have agreed. The staff is charming and helpful, and the hotel's little touches - like homemade soap and free drinking water in your room - seem to win almost every visitor over. Plus, after a day of sightseeing in busy Bangkok, the hotel's hippie vibe suddenly becomes "homey" - especially after an onsite Thai massage and glass of refreshing tea.

Book with the hotel here.

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What to Do

There's way too much to do in Bangkok to list here in this issue. So make sure to take a look at our blog this week for insider recommendations on all there is to explore in this vibrant city, including where to have the best street food, the best way to splurge, and how to find fancy spa treatments for cheap!

PS - For an amazing map of excellent eats in Bangkok, click here

[image courtesy The Peninsula Hotel]


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