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The Caribbean's Most Pristine Scene: Saba

trip pick of the week
December 23, 2008
The holidays are here and in light of the festivities, this week we bring you a present you should give yourself: a trip down to the Caribbean. Rest assured, however, that we're not recommending just any destination in the sun; we've picked an island that's slightly off-the-beaten path and entirely worth exploring: Saba. 

With its protected coral reefs and practically-car-free roads, this Dutch Caribbean island is the perfect match for those who can't stand the idea of margaritas poolside at an all-inclusive resort. The island isn't exactly undeveloped - there are hotels and restaurants after all - but its landscape is pristine, and its 1,400 residents are friendly, interacting with everyone who chooses to visit the island they call home. Crime is relatively unheard of, and most people don't even lock their doors - if there are even locks on their doors to lock!

A big part of Saba's charm is due to the fact that it has less than 25,000 visitors a year, many of them repeat guests who consider the island a secret travel spot - one they only share with their closest friends. And perhaps best of all is that in in today's economic climate, Saba is relatively inexpensive, with extremely nice accommodation (like your own cottage!) available for around $100/night...

Perhaps Saba is so affordable because unlike its other island neighbors, it lacks the sandy beaches that draw so many hordes of tourists down south come winter. What it lacks in sand, however, it makes up for with miles of hiking trails, well preserved rainforests, protected coral reef, cozy cottages for rent and a friendly, laid-back vibe.

Some more good news about Saba: it's only accessible via St. Maarten, which is particularly cheap to fly to right now. We found roundtrip, nonstop flights on sale for $333 - all taxes and fees included. It's hard to fly to Miami for less than that, let alone the Dutch Carribbean! So keep reading for all our ideas on what to do, where to stay and how to play on Saba. And please take note: next week we'll be having a much lighter version of jauntsetter as we'll be doing some traveling ourselves!

xo,

your (very pale and cold) jauntsetter team

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Trip Details

When to Go

The winter, quite obviously - we think you should go soon, as soon as you can! That said, any time of year will do in Saba: the average daily temperature is 80 degrees, with little fluctuation. High season is mid-December to mid-April, so if you head there outside these dates, prices can drop by up to 50%.

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Length of Stay

Try and spend at least 5 nights on Saba. It's a tiny island, so a weekend away could technically work out - but we think it'd be criminal not to stay longer on an island nicknamed the Caribbean's "Unspoiled Queen."

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Getting There

The very best deals to Saba, hands down, are via St. Marteen (SXM) with Continental's Caribbean Sale

We found a nonstop, roundtrip flight leaving Newark Thursday morning, Jan 22nd and returning Tuesday night, Jan 27th, for $332 total (all taxes and fees included). As far as we can tell, these rates are pretty much the norm for most of January (excluding Martin Luther King Day weekend), February and much of March. This sale doesn't have an expiration date but we're sure these fares will sell out quickly, so book fast!

Once at St. Maarten airport, go ahead and splurge by taking a 12 minute flight over to the island (starting at $40/each way) on Win-Air, which has up to 7 flights a day. Or take a ferry ride (warning: the boats don't run on Mondays), which is only 90 minutes ($35/each way). 

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Getting Around

There are very few cars on Saba - you'll notice locals mostly hitchhike as a result - and most everything on the island is walkable. In other words, you'll be walking most everywhere on Saba, so bring comfortable shoes! For the lazy, taxis are a phone call away from any hotel or restaurant.

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Where to Stay

Our #1 Pick: Rent a Villa

Our main villa pick is the "House on the Path," an adorable one-bedroom villa that's perfect for a couple of friends (though it can sleep up to three people). Tucked away in a quiet section of rainforest, this villa has a beautiful ocean view, plus a lovely looking kitchen, living room, dining area, inviting looking bathtub, outdoor shower and a perfect looking porch. 

Amenities include: a cell phone, DVD player, washer, dryer and basics like a coffee maker and blender (make your own margs!). Check out the pictures here: you'll love them. The villa is available by the night ($175) or week ($1100). 

For an even cheaper option, check out Daphne's Cottage, which has rates starting at just $110/a day (2 night minimum) or $800 - a week! 

This 1835 cottage is simply decorated, with a vast DVD library - and it's conveniently located just 300 ft from a charming little town. Phone or fax is only provided upon request - there's no TV reception either. Truly, this is a spot to get away from it all!

There's plenty of availability at both cottages, but if you fancy looking at what else is available on the island, check out the thorough listings here.

Our Budget Pick: Scout's Place Hotel, Bar, Restaurant & Dive Center 

Rates start at just $87/night - in the high season - at this cute scuba-shop-cum-restaurant-cum-hotel. Located in the heart of the "gingerbread village" of Windwardside, Scout's is within walking distance of almost everything - including the tourist office. All rooms have their own bathroom, balconies, and free wireless, and most have an ocean view.

There's also a pool onsite, a dive shop, and a bar where everyone - locals, divers and tourists - mingle. This is not only our budget place to stay, but our choice if you're traveling alone - the people couldn't be friendlier, and we can't think of a more chilled-out place to stay. They also have "stay and dive" packages.

Our Splurge Pick: Queen's Garden Resort

The Queen's Garden Resort hosts spacious one and two bedroom suites and the largest pool on the island. That said, this isn't a large property - there are only 12 rooms to choose from, and service is friendly and personalized. At 1,200 feet above sea level, each room has a lovely view of the ocean, and there's a highly recommended restaurant on site, plus easy access to hiking trails. 

The resort also has all the perks you'd expect from an upmarket hotel: the staff is international and ready to help with everything - from helping set up a conference call (shudder) to arranging a massage. If you feel like being waited on on your vacation, this is the spot to book on Saba. 

For more hotel and villa-option rentals, check out Saba's Official Tourism site.

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To Do

Saba is all about being outdoors and besides hiking, scuba diving and snorkeling, there's not too much to do. If you're not relaxed when you arrive, you definitely will be by the time you leave. 

The best way to figure out what to do on Saba is to get to know the residents; they'll tell you about their favorite hiking trails or restaurant. Of course, we've also got a few ideas of our own. See below and enjoy!

  • Take a hike. Saba's trails are extremely accessible for hikers of all abilities.  
  • Go scuba diving or snorkeling! If you've never been, this is the place to try. There are three well-regarded dive shops on the island. Simply pick the one closest to where you're staying! 
  • After you've worked up an appetite, check out Swinging Doors for their Tuesday and Friday night barbeques
  • For fancier fare or a substantial Sunday brunch, head to the Queen's Garden Resort's restaurant - their food is the highest rated on the island. For a cheaper brunch, head to Lollipops. Or check out all the restaurant options on Saba here.
  • Scout's Place is where locals, tourists and divers mix. Have a beer here or sing a tune at Friday Night Karaoke - you won't regret it.
  • Get married! We can hardly think of a more romantic place. Plus, requirements are relatively few. Just make sure you've got the correct documents, and have given them three weeks notification; simply email nelliepeterson_4 [at] hotmail.com.

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