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October's Perfect Paris Trip

trip pick of the week
September 30, 2008
I love Paris in the Springtime, I love Paris in the Fall, I love Paris in the winter when it drizzles, I love Paris in the summer when it sizzles ... I love Paris every moment of the year ... So sings Ella Fitzgerald and we couldn't agree with her one bit more! We too love Paris anytime at all - but we must admit, we especially love the City of Lights in October.

Why then? Well, first of all, tourists have cleared the city and natives have come home from la plage, returning to the quotidian Paris rhythms that make the city so charming in the first place: buying fresh baguettes, sipping cafes, enjoying rich red wines as the weather cools off - all the while looking très chic, of course.

Ah, these sound like clichés, but forgive us - these routines are real for Parisians and we love them for it!

And so we insist, dear readers, that you look over the latest bargains and consider jaunting off to Paris stat. Yes, despite your protestations over how weak the dollar is, and how the economy is plunging (we're all too aware), it is possible to live frugally in the City of Lights.

In this week's issue we've unearthed some unbeatable deals on airfare* that should not be missed. We'll also walk you through how to rent an apartment on the cheap, and tell you our absolute favorite places to buy wine and cheese to picnic with. Quite seriously, you can live as a native Parisian for a week and we promise you'll come back to New York economically intact, definitely reinvigorated, and quite possibly a little bit more sophisticated. (Note: we said "possibly.")

So ladies, if you've never been to Paris before, stop putting it off - there's no time like the present for an escape. And if you've been, we think Paris only gets better with repeated visits. So grab a long book, a friend or beau and go!

Allons-y!

the jauntsetter team

* We found a nonstop roundtrip flight for the second week of Oct for $609, including all fees and taxes.
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Trip Details:

If at all possible, try and get to Paris in October. Fashion week is over, tourists are few and far between, and when you're bundled up in your cutest autumn sweater, the days are warm enough for Seine-side picnics and the nights are crisp enough for trotting about. That said, November works well too, and hotel and airfare bargains abound during this chillier (but just-warm-enough) month.

So how much time do you need in Paris? For us, a week would be ideal (truth be told, we'd move there for a few months if we could!), but if you can't spare many vacation days, even just four nights in the city can work. Really.

How's that? To put things in perspective, the flight to Paris doesn't take much longer than one to San Francisco, and the time difference really isn't bad. In fact, it's almost opportune; your circadian rhythms will be just fine in Paris, where you'll naturally be staying up late and sleeping in (after all, it's your vacation, isn't it?).

Getting There:

We've found some unbeatable airfare, and we encourage you to take advantage of all your options for nonstop flights to Paris (see this week's specials). We also suggest leaving New York on the latest evening flight you can find; try to take one that departs after 9pm. You'll be more likely to be sleepy on the plane and once you land, you'll still have a whole day ahead of you.

When you arrive in Paris, there's a 95% chance you'll land in Charles De Gaulle. From there, it's easy to take the RER train to most of city's main stations. Tickets for the train are only $18 USD* (see our "detailed information" section at the bottom of this page for specific RER tips).

While we recommend taking the train to Paris, once you arrive in the train station closest to your accommodation, go ahead and grab a cab for this last leg of your journey. Taxis aren't cheap in Paris but they're not prohibitively expensive either, and the less you have to deal with maps at this point in the trip, the better. You can figure out the (easy) Metro later.

Where to Stay:

We're going to be very opinionated here and make two firm recommendations for your trip to Paris.

First off, do your best to stay in the charming Marais neighborhood. Some native Parisians might tell you it's played out, but for savvy tourists, it's one of the most advantageous locations to center yourself in. Wonderful restaurants, fun bars, cute cafes and chic boutiques line the streets. Most importantly, the Marais is within walking distance of most major attractions.

Secondly, we heavily encourage you to rent an apartment. Besides being generally more affordable than staying in a hotel, renting an apartment also allows you to shop at local markets for breakfast, make coffee at home, cook the occasional dinner and even do laundry.* This last benefit might not sound very exciting, but it's increadibly practical, especially if you're visiting Paris for a week: you'll not only save money but you'll also be able to pack much more lightly for your trip.

A final note: we realize that some people prefer to stay at hotels, so we've included a couple of our favorite budget-friendly options. To review, simply scroll down to the "detailed information" section at the end of this issue.

* Most apartments in Paris have a washer/dryer combo.

Our Paris Accommodation Pick:

We found our accomodation pick through our friend Drew from CobbleStay, a boutique apartment-rental service in Paris. Because Drew is the owner, we were able to score jauntsetter readers some marvelous deals (check out one here and another here) including one for this fabulous find in the Marais:

Named the Rue Amelot Loft, the apartment is located in the heart of the Marais. It has both a queen size bed and sofabed, and overlooks a tranquil courtyard.  (Check out the pictures and the amenities.) 

Thanks to our connection, our readers can get 10% off when they make their booking and mention "jauntsetter." This means the spacious apartment comes to only 690 Euro for 5 nights (which equals a little less than 1,000 dollars). If you split this deal with a friend, you'll each spend less than $100/night for a truly great space. 

For some more budget options, we recommend: Paris Hideaways or France Appartements, both of which boast a large range of affordable apartments in the Marais. 

What to do:

Paris is a walkable city with an amazing subway system, and New Yorkers will feel surprisingly at home in its streets when they start exploring. That said, like Gotham, Paris has an almost overwhelming amount of options for visitors to choose from. Never fret! We've done our homework and will do our best to distill the best places to shop, eat and socialize in Paris on the jauntsetter blog this week, when we'll be featuring almost daily entries on each subject. 

Get started on the fun by perusing our "Three Days in Paris" feature, which lists three mini-itineraries organized around our favorite spots in town. And remember: the best part about a city like Paris is veering off on your own. Allow yourself to get lost and enjoy! 

More Detailed Info:

General Tips

* For public transit takers: take the Metro and buy a "carnet," a little book of ten tickets.

* For coffee lovers: cafe crème (not latte) is coffee with milk! 

* For shoppers: stores are crazy closed on Sunday, with the exception of Le Bon Marché, although, sadly, if you go on a Sunday, its adjacent La Grand Epicerie is closed. Save Sunday for picnics and walking, not shopping!

* For market goers: many markets, including the Enfants Rouges (referenced in our blog), are closed on Mondays and from 1 to 4 each day, and only open in the morning on Sundays.

* Speaking of markets: we've included some higher-end shopping ideas for you in our "3 Days in Paris" feature, but we'd also like to mention that the city is home to some amazing flea markets. Read our report on the top three for some not-to-be-missed tips. 

And finally, a big Tip on Tips: it's really customary to only give a Euro or two for most services; you really shouldn't tip more than that, even at a pricier meal. It will feel wrong (oh so wrong!), but try to get over your American guilt. We've been told numerous times that the French secretly resent our tipping. They look at it this way: they pay their workers liveable wages, give them benefits, etc., and our tips can seem like an imposition on their way of life.

An Important Note on Taking the RER from CDG Airport:

It's fastest to buy your RER tickets from vending machines (the line for the ticket agent can be ridiculously long). Unfortunately, the ticket machines don't take American credit cards, so you'll be forced to use Euros. Not so fast: unless you have coins, you're out of luck. 

Considering buying a much needed coffee from one of the nearby snack bars and scoring change that way? Think again - the cashiers won't give you anywhere near the amount of extra coins you need to purchase a ticket. But never fear. If you look, there's actually an exchange booth not far from the vending machines. The agents, working on commission, will be happy to change your money for you as well as give you extra coins for those pesky vending machines. And buying a ticket on the RER is worth a little hassle: after all, if you catch an express to Gare du Nord, you'll be in Paris in less than 25 minutes!

More Pointers on Where to Stay:

Hotels

The Hotel Jeanne D'arc has super basic rooms but a central locale in the Marais. A single room starts at just 87 USD a night.

For something outside of the Marais that's very budget, we recommend the Hotel El Dorado. Its reviews on TripAdvisor are sometimes questionable, but what it lacks in soundproof walls it makes up for in youthful charm (we can attest to this; we've stayed here numerous times). The rooms are quirkily decorated and, more importantly, the hotel's bar and restaurant are popular with a fun crowd.

On that note, the El Dorado is not located in the most happening locale, but a quiet area can be a plus after a long day of sightseeing. And as is the case in most of Paris, you're also only a block or two away from a Metro Station. Most importantly, rooms with shared bathroom start at 35 USD - yes USD a night. What value!

Paris Hideaways Apartment Rentals

Our pick: Kate, our featured jauntsetter of the week, stayed in this small but cozy apartment in an unbeatable location last year in the northern Marais for 740 USD for a week. This price means if you rent with a friend, each night is roughly 75 USD. (Minor note: the bathroom, which is in the bedroom, is separated by a divider with large windows. It's a little intimate, but then again, isn't being intimate what Paris is all about?)

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