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Buenos Aires: Here We Come

trip pick of the week
November 25, 2008

"In Brazil they throw flowers at you. In Argentina they throw themselves," Marlene Dietrich once said of her Latin American fans.

Though we can't promise your arrival in Buenos Aires will inspire similar acts of passion, Argentines will, at the very least, roll out the red carpet treatment for you.

Why's that? While Argentina has always been an affordable vacation destination, the country is now, more than ever, being chosen for its budget-friendly value by savvy travelers. That's because the country's currency is at its lowest point in 6 years, with one US dollar getting you 3.33 pesos. So while the flight may cost you a bit, once you step off the plane into Argentina's warm air (it's summer there), you'll practically be turning a profit just by breathing.

Exchange rate aside, there are plenty of other compelling reasons to head to Argentina. With its French, Italian and Spanish roots, this diverse country is a veritable melting pot of European and Latino influences, which combine to create a sophisticated but laid-back culture where delicious food, affordable wine and lengthy siestas are relished daily.

Argentina is also one of the world's biggest countries, with an impressively varied geography to match its size: mountains, beaches, deserts and vineyards dot its massive landscape. Urbanites, however, should also take note: Buenos Aires, Argentina's capital, is booming with modern architecture, a hot design scene and fashionable restaurants, serving up sophisticated fare at a fraction of New York's prices.

Truly, there's something for everyone in Argentina and we can't think of a better time to head down to the land of tango, vino and chimichurri. We've done our best to convince you further by wrapping up our insider tips below. We're specifically covering Buenos Aires in this week's trip pick, but our daily-updated blog will cover side trips to Mendoza and Patagonia all this week.

So, if you've nixed exotic vacations because of the economy, we ask you to reconsider. Argentina really is a bargain, and it'd be a shame not to take advantage of its languishing peso. Keep reading for our ideas on how to enjoy *the* best vacation-value of 2008!

xoxo,

your jauntsetter team

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Trip Details

When to Go

It's summer in Argentina right now, and Buenos Aires' sunny days are comfortably warm, with highs in the 80s and lows in the 70s. All in all, a sundress-inspiring respite for bundled-up New Yorkers.

As mentioned, we also believe there's never been a better time to visit Argentina due to the peso being so low. To put the currency catastrophe in perspective - a delectable steak dinner at one of Buenos Aires' most fashionable restaurants will cost you little more than 30 pesos, or less than 9 US dollars, per person.

Though hotels and internal flights aren't as dirt cheap, overall, everything else is - in essence - a third of the price in Argentina! You'll truly be shocked by how affordable your trip can be.

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Length of Stay

Flying to Buenos Aires from New York takes about 9 hours, so if you go, make sure you have at least a week to explore Buenos Aires and the time take one of our recommended side trips (as we've mentioned, we'll be covering Patagonia, Salta and Mendoza in our blog this week). That said, we think two weeks in Argentina is ideal.

Of that time, we recommend devoting 4 nights to Buenos Aires, which is easy, as it's the city you'll fly in and out of. In fact, Buenos Aires is a great place to get over jetlag when you first arrive in the country for your vacation. Like New York, it's a city that never sleeps, and people routinely go out do dinner at 11:30pm - on  Monday.

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Getting There

While flights to Argentina aren't exactly inexpensive, there are some good deals to be found. And considering how cheap things are when you arrive, it's easy to justify the slightly-expensive airfare. All in all, we've found some really solid deals for you - all nonstop, roundtrip and including all taxes and fees, for under $1,000 each.

  • If you can take off somewhat soon, there are flights out of JFK for as little as $887 on American in December (we found one leaving Dec 9th, returing Dec 16th).
  • Or if you want to start your 2009 off with a bang, fly out of JFK with Delta for the same price - just $887, leaving January 2nd, returning Jan 19th.
  • Early-bird planners will save even more. February is an ideal time to visit Argentina, and flights are as cheap as $756 on American (we found tickets with a departure of Feb 3rd and return date of Feb 17th). 

For those of you with flexible dates, check out Kayak Buzz for more options, or set up an alert with Airfare Watchdog. Ticket prices have been fluctuating like crazy, and if you keep looking, we're betting you'll be able to find even more favorable fares (though it doesn't get much cheaper than our February-find, $756 with all taxes and fees included!).

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Getting Around

From the airport: You'll likely arrive at Ezeiza airport, jetlagged and confused. Don't be tempted by car-service touts - instead, head to the official taxi desk in the arrival hall, and prepare to pay up to AR$100 ($29 USD) to city center destinations. Fares are one way and include tolls. Make sure to give yourself one hour during rush hour to make it to your destination.

In the city there are lots of cabs: Take them. With the exchange rate, they'll feel criminally cheap. There's no need to rent a car in Argentina, and it's definitely uncalled for in Buenos Aires, where you'd get lost in 2 seconds flat. Plus, a ride across this (very big) city won't cost you more than $10 USD - we promise.

A few word of warnings: Make sure you take a "radio taxi," which is a licensed cab. Your hotel or restaurant will gladly call one for you. Or, if you want to hail one on the street, make sure the car is black and yello, with a red light and says "radio taxi" on it. If it doesn't have these colors or signage, and it also doesn't have a meter inside,* you'll likely be ripped off. Not to fret, however - as mentioned, there are plenty of legit cabs on Buenos Aires' streets, as long as you know what you're looking for. Another tip (about tips): you are not expected to tip taxi drivers. On that note, make sure you don't give them big bills - try and pay them with anything smaller than AR$10.

* Sometimes hotels or restaurants will call you a remise, which looks like a private car and does not run on a meter. If this is the case, just make sure you agree to a price before setting off.

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Where to Stay

We recommend staying in the Palermo neighborhoods (Palermo Soho, Palermo Viejo, Palermo Hollywood, etc) in Buenos Aires. These mini-districts are akin to Williamsburg/SoHo/Cobble Hill in New York; in other words, you'll find designer stores, cute boutiques, trendy bars and restaurants, and fun clubs. You'll also find a wide range of accomodation choices from budget to splurge. Our favorite picks below:

Our #1 Pick: Otra Orilla

Otra Orilla is located in the quiet and lovely Palermo Viejo neighborhood, a short five-minute walk away from the trendy Palermo SoHo. The rooms at this quiet B&B are tastefully decorated, and the front desk exceedingly helpful. The receptionist will gladly confirm flights for you and call remises for dinners out. They'll also help you make reservations at recommended restaurants. Free breakfast, WiFi and other amenities.  For reservations, email info@otraorilla.com.ar.

Rates (tax included) are US $42-$133 single/double; US $169 suite - check out specific rooms on their website.

If Otra Ortilla is booked, think about staying at The Cocker, (a gay friendly) B&B that, while not in the Palermo neighborhood, has a fantastic location - San Telmo, the historical district of Buenos Aires. Flea markets, antique shops and designer stores line the streets of this cute area, and on Sunday afternoons it seems like all of the city is having a coffee at the nearby Plaza Dorrego. The Cocker itself is an art-deco townhouse that boasts free WiFi, breakfast and 5 individually decorated rooms.  Email askthecocker@thecocker.com for more details, or reservations@thecocker.com for availability.

Rates (tax included): US $80-$105 single/double.

Our Midrange pick: Home Hotel 

Home is also located in the tranquil Palermo Viejo, but on its outer edges - you'll have to walk 10 minutes to get to Palermo's central shopping district. That said, Home seems to be a desination unto itself: this boutique hotel is the top choice of various travel publications like Conde Nast Traveler and TimeOut Buenos Aires. It also wins rave reviews from TripAdvisor reviewers for its attention to detail, super professional service and outstanding rooms (Suite #17 seems to be a favorite). There's also an onsite spa, pool, excellent Sunday brunch, and Friday night DJ events. Warning: its website is somewhat atrocious. Email: info@homebuenosaires.com for more info if it's functioning too slowly.

Rates: US $150-$180 double; US $260 suite; US $350 loft; US $390 garden suite.

Our Splurge Pick: The Faena Hotel + Universe

Going on a honeymoon? Anniversary trip? Won the lotto? If your answer is "yes" to any of the previous questions, you might want to consider staying at The Faena, our super luxe pick for Buenos Aires.  While hotels of this price (rates start at $500 USD) usually fail to live up to the expectations of those who are paying, the Faena seems to be an exception. Nearly every TripAdvisor review is positive. Maybe it's because when you stay, you're assigned an "experience manager." Sound like overkill to us, but according to those who have gone, it's not. 

Can't afford the prices? Make sure you stop by the hotel's cabaret - everything from tango shows to new metal bands perform. And if you're traveling to Buenos Aires for a special occasion and thinking of staying at this indulgent-hotel, email: reservasuniverse@faenaexperience.com for reservations. It sounds like it's likely worth the pricetag.

Rates: $500-$550 double; US $650 studio; US $1000-$1500 suite.

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What to Do

As mentioned, we'll have plenty of extra Argentina tips on our blog this week. Below, however, we've got a few Buenos Aires highlights. Unsurprisingly, many of them revolve around eating steaks and drinking wine.

Our tips on steak, steak, steak:

  • Check out La Cabrera (Cabrera 5099, y Thames) in Palermo Viejo for old-school, no-nonsense meat-centered meals.
  • If you're inSan Telmo, think about La Brigada (Estados Unidos 465 between Bolivar y Defensa), where carnivores with high-standards dine.
  • Or head to Cabana Las Lilas  (Alicia Moreau de Justo 516, Dique 4) for equally good fare in Puerto Madero.
  • Warning: for some reason, Argentinians tend to overcook their steaks. If you like it medium, order your steak rare.
  • Argentina has some of the best beef in the world, and most of it is grass-fed and organic. With the pesos so low, these steaks are a steal.
  • Argentina is the 7th largest wine-producing country in the world, but doesn't export much of it. That's because Argentinians are drinking it! Prices range in restaurants from $8 a bottle to $200. And it's hard to go wrong. Enjoy!

Activities

  • Visit the famous Recoleta Cemetery - Cementerio de la Recoleta - in the Recoleta neigbhorhood (Junin 1760, entre Guido y Vicente Lopez). Open from 7am to 5:45pm daily.
  • Check out the beautiful Botanical Gardens - Jardin Botanico Carlos Thays - a short walk from Palermo Viego at Avenida Santa Fe 395. Admission is free and cat-sightings abound. Hours are Nov-March 8am-8pm; April-Oct 9am-6pm
  • Shop, shop, shop in Palermo. Bargains can be found: designer clothing, leather goods, and design-y finds are instantly cheaper with the peso being so low. Most hotels + B&Bs have handy pocket-sized Palermo maps with store listings.
  • Yes, you must watch the tango. Visit Confiteria La Ideal (Suipacha 284) to watch milonga - you'll be charmed by some of the oldsters performing this seductive dance with grace. Young people join in too. Interested? Lessons are given on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays. Have your hotel receptionist call (5265 8078) for the latest hours. 

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